The Toro flows far below the silver bridge that crosses it between Aqua Zarcas and San Miguel. Unfortunatley, from here down the pig farm nearby contaminates the water, making it a less satisfying whitewater experience. However, for those who are willing to brave the "Caca Cascade", it is a section full of wonderful whitewater (brown water).
The rapids are similar to the Recreo Verde section, but not as steep, and not as continuous. There are still some tight turns and boulder gardens to be had. The fist 30 minutes in this section took getting used to the pig smell, but after that, the river was back to fun again! (photos coming soon)
About an hour down from the bridge is a great lunch spot. It is on a river right beach with a small hut on the shore. I think it may be commercial, but there wasn't anyone there when we passed through. Nothing like a warm beach to enjoy tortillas with tuna fish and chicky's. Below here is a rapid that has a log sticking out across the right side of the river. You can duck under it or go hard left.
About halfway down this run the character of the run changes dramatically. The canyon opens up, and it goes to "small bigwater" boating. The holes get a bit bigger and the river seems to double in size and volume. The open plains are a welcome change and it is surprising that the gradient continues with quality whitewater, even though the river is open and out of the canyon. There is also the drone of the chicadees that can be deafening. Its amazing that such small animals can make so much noise with their legs.
We were floating down this open pastured section when we noticed a monkey in a tree. Closer inspection revealed that there was a whole family of them, and that they were as interested in the small colorful things in the river as we were in them. Its this kind of wildlife and experiences that make Costa Rica such a fun place to be. (photo coming soon)
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
2/12/2007 - Rio Toro - Recreo Verde Section
Todd, Heather and I had wanted to run the Class V Casa Maquinas section of the Rio Toro. We had also met a Tico, Raulio, the previous day who came with us for the ride. Todd ran it years ago and we wanted to go check it out. The putin is at the Rio Toro Dam II, about 10km up a very steep road, indicative of incredible gradient in the run! The scene at the dam is surreal: The dam was built deep in the Rio Toro canyon. The walls rise vertically over your head, and water tumbles down hundreds of feet to the valley floor. The huge hydroelectric plant is dwarfed by the immensity of this place. Its an experience just to be there. Unfortunately, we weren't able to run this part of the Toro on this day. (photos of canyon and fun nazi coming soon).
ICE (the Costa Rican power/ telecommunications monopoly) was doing work on the dam with some heavy machinery. The guard (read=fun nazi) told us that only people wearing jackets and helmet were allowed to enter the construction zone. We agreed to wear our helmets and PFDs but the guard, who also had a gun, was not amused. So we snapped some photos, tried to find another way to the river, tried to bribe the gaurd, turned around, and headed 3 miles downstream to the Class IV Recreo Verde section of the Toro. We'll be back for the Casa Maquinas another day. (photos of dam project coming soon)
The Recreo Verde gets its name from the put in at the Recreo Verde Hotsprings. We were charged 1000 colones ($2) per person to use their river access. This seemed steep, but we didn't really have another option. The Toro river is a mineral rich river, similar to the Rio Sucio. For this reason, the Toro is a brown-yellow color all the time. Although it looks very dirty, it is actually quite clean (until the pig farm... more on that later).
The Toro River canyon is quite deep, and very isolated. Although the section of river is Class III+-IV, the commitment makes it more intimidating. The walls rise up hundreds of feet above the river bed, and vines and jungle cover the walls for as far as the eye can see. It is true Costa Rica boating. (photos coming soon)
The river runs fast and gives continuous Class III-IV rapids and boulder gardens for the first few miles. Although there are few distinct rapids, there are many that run one into another, keeping the pace fast and interesting. If there is any one character of this section, its that every wall that the water hits at the bottom of each rapid is undercut. We all managed well, but it seemed like most of the run was spent avoiding undercut walls. It was great fun!
The first significant rapid is a drop on the right side that goes over some big rocks and through a big hole. At the bottom it goes into an undercut wall (of course). In general starting near the walls and paddling away from them was most effective.
The river has a cave formation on the left side as it bends right and drops through a steeper boulder garden. There was a log on the right side of the channel, making the left ideal. Super fun move off the wall on the left. (photo coming soon)
One of the coolest things about the Toro is that the walls have lots of small waterfalls and drips coming down them. Many of them are thermals, and thus have warm water coming out of the walls. It seemed like the water in the river got warmer as we headed downstream, almost the opposite of the Green Truss of the White Salmon, which gets colder as the underground springs come into it.(photo coming soon)
There are numerous boulder gardens and fun small drops as you go, too numerous to remember. They were all good to go, and would be a total blast with a bit more water. About a mile downstream there is an old stone bridge over the river. Below this is a waterfall on river left, and a few hundred meters later is the first and only portage on the river. It comes as the river widens and the canyon opens and there is a huge boulder in the middle of the river. There are many small channels that cascade down sideways, and all of them terminate in jumbles of rocks. The best thing to do is paddle up on one of the islands in the rapid and carry your boat across it to the lower left channel, thereby walking the "jumbles of rocks". At higher water staying left from the top is an option, but at low water that route closes out. (photo coming soon)
Next up is the boof rapid. This has a big boulder with a ramp of water running up on it. You can charge this ramp and fly over the top of it. Don't go right to the side of it or you might drop into the narrow slot with a piton rock at the bottom. (photo coming soon)
About 1 km below this rapid is the bridge, signaling the end of the Recreo Verde section. Most people combine this with the Lower Rio Toro, as we did. The bridge is the putin for the lower as well as the takeout for the upper. It is noted that there is a HUGE pig farm on the river right side of the bridge, and from this point down, you must be careful to limit the amount of water that you get in your mouth, eyes, ears, ect... I'd also recommend noseplugs for at least a mile (maybe more) below the farm. Yuck. (photo coming soon) The lower section that we paddled below here can be found in the Lower Trip Report.
ICE (the Costa Rican power/ telecommunications monopoly) was doing work on the dam with some heavy machinery. The guard (read=fun nazi) told us that only people wearing jackets and helmet were allowed to enter the construction zone. We agreed to wear our helmets and PFDs but the guard, who also had a gun, was not amused. So we snapped some photos, tried to find another way to the river, tried to bribe the gaurd, turned around, and headed 3 miles downstream to the Class IV Recreo Verde section of the Toro. We'll be back for the Casa Maquinas another day. (photos of dam project coming soon)
The Recreo Verde gets its name from the put in at the Recreo Verde Hotsprings. We were charged 1000 colones ($2) per person to use their river access. This seemed steep, but we didn't really have another option. The Toro river is a mineral rich river, similar to the Rio Sucio. For this reason, the Toro is a brown-yellow color all the time. Although it looks very dirty, it is actually quite clean (until the pig farm... more on that later).
The Toro River canyon is quite deep, and very isolated. Although the section of river is Class III+-IV, the commitment makes it more intimidating. The walls rise up hundreds of feet above the river bed, and vines and jungle cover the walls for as far as the eye can see. It is true Costa Rica boating. (photos coming soon)
The river runs fast and gives continuous Class III-IV rapids and boulder gardens for the first few miles. Although there are few distinct rapids, there are many that run one into another, keeping the pace fast and interesting. If there is any one character of this section, its that every wall that the water hits at the bottom of each rapid is undercut. We all managed well, but it seemed like most of the run was spent avoiding undercut walls. It was great fun!
The first significant rapid is a drop on the right side that goes over some big rocks and through a big hole. At the bottom it goes into an undercut wall (of course). In general starting near the walls and paddling away from them was most effective.
The river has a cave formation on the left side as it bends right and drops through a steeper boulder garden. There was a log on the right side of the channel, making the left ideal. Super fun move off the wall on the left. (photo coming soon)
One of the coolest things about the Toro is that the walls have lots of small waterfalls and drips coming down them. Many of them are thermals, and thus have warm water coming out of the walls. It seemed like the water in the river got warmer as we headed downstream, almost the opposite of the Green Truss of the White Salmon, which gets colder as the underground springs come into it.(photo coming soon)
There are numerous boulder gardens and fun small drops as you go, too numerous to remember. They were all good to go, and would be a total blast with a bit more water. About a mile downstream there is an old stone bridge over the river. Below this is a waterfall on river left, and a few hundred meters later is the first and only portage on the river. It comes as the river widens and the canyon opens and there is a huge boulder in the middle of the river. There are many small channels that cascade down sideways, and all of them terminate in jumbles of rocks. The best thing to do is paddle up on one of the islands in the rapid and carry your boat across it to the lower left channel, thereby walking the "jumbles of rocks". At higher water staying left from the top is an option, but at low water that route closes out. (photo coming soon)
Next up is the boof rapid. This has a big boulder with a ramp of water running up on it. You can charge this ramp and fly over the top of it. Don't go right to the side of it or you might drop into the narrow slot with a piton rock at the bottom. (photo coming soon)
About 1 km below this rapid is the bridge, signaling the end of the Recreo Verde section. Most people combine this with the Lower Rio Toro, as we did. The bridge is the putin for the lower as well as the takeout for the upper. It is noted that there is a HUGE pig farm on the river right side of the bridge, and from this point down, you must be careful to limit the amount of water that you get in your mouth, eyes, ears, ect... I'd also recommend noseplugs for at least a mile (maybe more) below the farm. Yuck. (photo coming soon) The lower section that we paddled below here can be found in the Lower Trip Report.
Monday, March 12, 2007
3/12/2007 - Rio Sarapiqui, Upper
Heather, Todd and I needed to check out all of the rivers for the Wet Planet itinerary. Following their airport hell, we drove to the Sarapiqui River, putting in at Pozo Azul Adventure Center. The putin below the bridge revealed more water than my last trip down, but still pretty rocky. We were all pretty happy to be on the water after the 3 hour drive from the airport to the Northern plains of Costa Rica.(Photo coming soon)
From the bridge you can see the first rapid. The river goes through a shallow boulder garden before dropping over a jumble of rocks toward the right wall. At low water the rapid is very shallow and you need to bash over many of the rocks as you go.
The river goes along for a bit before the next rapid. In this one, the whole river splits around an island. Go left and dodge the rocks and holes down this chute. Right down the middle is good, and there's a sweet boof over the hole half way down. (Photo coming soon) Below this rapid after the river reconnects there is a beautiful blue pool where you can often find local kids swimming.
About 1km downstream is the Class III rapid, Rocky Road. This is obvious as the river bends right and crashes into a large rocky wall. There are a few holes and rocks close to the wall, so you need to ferry left away from the wall to stay out of them. The rock wall may be slightly undercut, so stay off it. (Photo coming soon)
A bit down from this rapid is the Class III+ Superman. This rapid is obvious when the river has a small gravel bar with a large Y-shaped tree growing in the middle of the river. The channel splits here, and you need to go right of the tree. There is a narrow chute with a hole on the left side, so right is better. Down below the chute is a hidden rock at lower water that is too easy to crash into. Keep an eye out down below for this. (Photos coming soon)
The Sarapiqui then begins what we named The S Turns. This section has a number of bends that terminate in undercut walls, some with, some without pillows. All of the walls should be approached with caution, as they are undercut and are deceivingly powerful.(Photo coming soon)
The river splits again a bit downstream, and you can go either way. Left is good with a narrow channel that drops in next to a wall. Riding the pillow off this wall is fun, and there's another fun wave when it remeets the other channel.(Photo coming soon)
From here down its all good till the takeout. The takeout is on the river left under the first hanging bridge. There is a small parking area here, but don't leave your car here unattended. There are some crazy kids here who will try to take your stuff or dance around like monkeys. Weird.
This is an easy shuttle to hitch hike, and the people at Pozo Azul are super cool and will likely let you leave your car in their parking lot if you ask. Walk from the takeout 100m to the main road. Hitchhike to your left back to Hacienda Pozo Azul. The Tent Camp at Pozo Azul is reasonable and a nice place to crash for boating. Highly recommended. They also have a sweet canopy tour and other activities.
This is a fun stretch of river, especially with more water. After the run, we booked it up to the 28 foot Pozo Azul waterfall to check it out.(photos coming soon)
From the bridge you can see the first rapid. The river goes through a shallow boulder garden before dropping over a jumble of rocks toward the right wall. At low water the rapid is very shallow and you need to bash over many of the rocks as you go.
The river goes along for a bit before the next rapid. In this one, the whole river splits around an island. Go left and dodge the rocks and holes down this chute. Right down the middle is good, and there's a sweet boof over the hole half way down. (Photo coming soon) Below this rapid after the river reconnects there is a beautiful blue pool where you can often find local kids swimming.
About 1km downstream is the Class III rapid, Rocky Road. This is obvious as the river bends right and crashes into a large rocky wall. There are a few holes and rocks close to the wall, so you need to ferry left away from the wall to stay out of them. The rock wall may be slightly undercut, so stay off it. (Photo coming soon)
A bit down from this rapid is the Class III+ Superman. This rapid is obvious when the river has a small gravel bar with a large Y-shaped tree growing in the middle of the river. The channel splits here, and you need to go right of the tree. There is a narrow chute with a hole on the left side, so right is better. Down below the chute is a hidden rock at lower water that is too easy to crash into. Keep an eye out down below for this. (Photos coming soon)
The Sarapiqui then begins what we named The S Turns. This section has a number of bends that terminate in undercut walls, some with, some without pillows. All of the walls should be approached with caution, as they are undercut and are deceivingly powerful.(Photo coming soon)
The river splits again a bit downstream, and you can go either way. Left is good with a narrow channel that drops in next to a wall. Riding the pillow off this wall is fun, and there's another fun wave when it remeets the other channel.(Photo coming soon)
From here down its all good till the takeout. The takeout is on the river left under the first hanging bridge. There is a small parking area here, but don't leave your car here unattended. There are some crazy kids here who will try to take your stuff or dance around like monkeys. Weird.
This is an easy shuttle to hitch hike, and the people at Pozo Azul are super cool and will likely let you leave your car in their parking lot if you ask. Walk from the takeout 100m to the main road. Hitchhike to your left back to Hacienda Pozo Azul. The Tent Camp at Pozo Azul is reasonable and a nice place to crash for boating. Highly recommended. They also have a sweet canopy tour and other activities.
This is a fun stretch of river, especially with more water. After the run, we booked it up to the 28 foot Pozo Azul waterfall to check it out.(photos coming soon)
The Money Shot
I was sitting on a Pacific beach (Playa Avallanes) about a week ago watching the sun set into the ocean. As the sun was dropping down toward the ocean, I saw a ship sailing across the horizon line. I was told it was a tourist ship that sails daily from Tamarindo down to Puntarenas, sort of a sunset cruise. As the sun got closer to the horizon line, the ship got closer to the sun. About 10 minutes before sunset I started joking with the owner of the restaurant, "How crazy would it be if the sun set into the ship?" As the sun hit the horizon, this is what we saw... The owner said it was the first time in 18 years he had seen it like this...
About 3 minutes before...
"The Money Shot"
About 3 minutes before...
"The Money Shot"
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