Monday, December 31, 2007

Why I love Argentina, Day 1

I just arrived in Ushuaia today, the southernmost city in the world! It is in the southern part of Tierra del Fuego along the Beagle Channel. This is also the first time I have been in Argentina thus far. As best I can tell, Argentina totally rocks, and I´m already feeling better about being here than I´ve felt in Chile in the past few weeks.

Tierra del Fuego is stunning. On the trip down from Punta Arenas, we crossed the Straight of Magellan, and then continued accross a desolate, gravel road through the Tierra. The first thing you notice is the sky, which spans endlessly as far as you can see in all directions. It is a rich blue, dotted with clouds like you might see from an airplane at 36,000ft. Then as we cruise the barren, windswept nothingness, we pass by some ponds, teaming with bright Pink Flamingos. Really. Thousands of them. They effortlessly run across the water, like ice skaters doing a well rehearsed performance. We make a rest stop in San Sebastian, 5km short of the border with Argentina. The bus stops for 30 minutes, but in the short time its easy to see why people call this 'the

As I get off the bus, the sun is shinning. A stiff breeze blows, but not too hard. In the distance, a grayish haze lurks. The wind picks up to a gusty 50-something MPH and the air turns cold. The Grey haze advances rapidly, like a swarm of bees disturber out of their hive. Within minutes, the rain begins to fall. It gets colder. Then the hail comes, hard and biting, clicking lightly on the plastic cover at the rest stop.

Just as fast as the hail starts, it eases off to a pounding rain, drops hitting hard and splattering the gravel; attaching more dirt to the already dusty Bus. The wind continues to usher the torment along, as if it has other things to do and can't afford a bit more time with us. And then it is gone. The flamingos fly by, a pink flutter signaling the passing of a nemesis.

The rest of the drive is scenic and beautiful, easing into the Tierra del Fuego Andes, the southernmost part of the andes that rise dramatically from the Beagle Channel. The mountains are dramatic and we´re graced with clear weather and great views of lakes, mountauns and sky.

Shortle after passing km 3000 on the Argentine Hwy 3, we round a corner to a spectacular double rainbow, as if signaling the entrance to Ushuaia. The rainbow streches from mountain to mountain, arching over the arid forrests that look like they belong at 10,000ft, even though we are at sea level. The windswept land and rugged mountains rise from the sea, streching into the blue sky, and then dropping in front of us into the Beagle Channel and behind Navarino Island. Boats dot the horizon of this stunning sea scape. Welcome to Ushuaia.

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